The story begins in 1908 in Tokyo, with a chemistry professor named Kikunae Ikeda at the Tokyo Imperial University who was having lunch and was thinking about a bowl of dashi, the traditional Japanese broth made from kombu seaweed and dried fish. Professor Ikeda noticed that dashi gave foods a meaty, savory quality, and wanted to figure out how and why.

Professor Ikeda then experimented with the goal to extract the unknown element from kelp, in which he discovered that glutamic acid was a central element in the taste of the dashi.

He found that after days of evaporating and treating the seaweed, he found the development of a crystalline form. When he tasted the crystals, he recognized the distinct savory taste that dashi lent to other foods, a taste he named umami, from the Japanese word umai, meaning "delicious."

This is a landmark moment in food science. It challenged a cornerstone of culinary thinking: instead of four tastes—sweet, salty, bitter, and sour—there were now five!

The Fifth Taste—Umami's Recognition

Interestingly, while Professor Ikeda named and described umami in 1908, it took almost a century for Western science to formally accept it as a fifth basic taste. Umami has been considered the fifth taste since the early 2000s in Western Culture, varyingly translating from Japanese as "tasty," "scrumptiousness," "deliciousness," or "savory."

Western science eventually caught up and researchers discovered dedicated umami taste receptors on the human tongue, separate from the other four, the same way we have receptors specifically tuned to sweetness or saltiness. The delay in Western recognition is itself a story of cultural bias, as a Japanese scientist's naming of a new taste category was slow to gain traction in European and American scientific circles.

The long-held "tongue map" (tip = sweet, back = bitter, etc.) is a myth based on a 1901 misinterpretation of data. Modern research confirms that all five basic tastes (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, umami) can be detected by taste receptor cells spread across all areas of the tongue, rather than in specific zones.

From Discovery to Product:

Professor Ikeda tried potassium glutamate, calcium glutamate, and other combinations, but sodium glutamate proved the most readily soluble in water and provided the best flavor, so he concluded that the creation of a sodium glutamate from sodium concentrate was optimal.

He submitted a patent application in April 1908 and received patent approval on July 25 of the same year.

The Suzuki brothers began commercial production of Monosodium Glutamate in 1909 using the term Ajinomoto ("essence of taste"). By the 1930s, recipes in Japan included Ajinomoto to use in their directions.

How MSG Works on Your Taste Buds

MSG works because glutamate, the core molecule, is recognized by specific receptors on the tongue that are distinct from other taste receptors.

When glutamate binds to these receptors, it triggers the umami sensation: that deep, savory, full-bodied richness that makes food feel satisfying and complete.

MSG balances, blends, and rounds the perception of other tastes.

It doesn't simply add a flavor of its own, it amplifies and integrates other flavors already present, which is why a tiny amount can explode a dish.

Glutamate is also, crucially, not foreign to the body. Glutamate is one of the most abundant excitatory neurotransmitters in the brain, playing a crucial role in memory and learning. The body produces it naturally and recognizes it immediately.

Many people fear MSG as an "artificial" additive, yet the same compound is naturally present in breast milk, Parmigiano-Reggiano, tomatoes, mushrooms, and soy sauce. The glutamate molecule is chemically identical regardless of its source.

So, umami is quite literally one of the first flavors humans ever taste.

A fabulous recipe from The Seasons of Parmigiano-Reggiano by Nancy Radke. A great way to use some of our great Parmigiano-Reggiano!

Parmigiano-Reggiano contains roughly 1,200 mg of free glutamate per 100g, making it one of the single highest natural sources of glutamate of any food, far exceeding soy sauce (~800 mg/100g), anchovies, or tomato paste. This is why a small amount of Parmigiano-Reggiano can dramatically intensify the savoriness of an entire dish.

Does Aging Dramatically Increase Glutamate?

The short answer is: more aging = more free glutamate.

Here's why:

During aging, proteolysis occurs as enzymes break down the large casein proteins in the cheese into smaller peptides and then into free amino acids, including glutamate. The longer the cheese ages, the more protein is broken down, and the more free glutamate is released.

What Happens at Each Stage

Fresh / Under 12 months
- Mild, milky, slightly tangy
- Protein breakdown is just beginning
- Paste is still relatively soft and moist
- Lower free glutamate


At 18 Months (Giovane / Young)
- Flavor becomes noticeably more complex and savory
- Texture firms up considerably
- Small white specks (tyrosine crystals) may begin forming
- Umami is present but still relatively mild
- Good for melting and everyday cooking


At 24 Months (Vecchio / Old)
- This is the minimum age for most commercially exported Parmigiano-Reggiano
- Proteolysis is well advanced and free glutamate levels are substantially elevated
- The tyrosine crystals are clearly visible and crunchy which is a sign of deep protein breakdown
- Flavor is rich, nutty, fruity, and deeply savory
- Texture is grainy and crumbly
- The rind becomes very hard


At 36 Months (Stravecchio / Extra vecchio)
- Free glutamate is at its peak and the umami punch is intense
- Tyrosine crystals are abundant and large
- Flavor develops sharper, more complex notes which are sometimes described as caramel, pineapple, or even slight spice
- Texture is very dry, granular, and almost flaky
- Less ideal for melting; best eaten in shards on its own


The Tyrosine Crystals

Those white crunchy bits are often mistaken for bits of salt, but they're actually tyrosine amino acid crystals which is a direct by product of the same proteolysis that liberates glutamate. Their presence and size are a reliable visual indicator of how deeply aged and amino-acid-rich the cheese is.

Aging Parmigiano-Reggiano is a slow, controlled process of converting protein into flavor, and glutamate is the primary molecule responsible for that transformation. Umami.

Risotto (riso = rice) is defined as rice cooked until it reaches a creamy consistency. It is not just any creaminess. It, when done to perfection, is like no other rice dish in any culture that we know of.

It all starts with the rice itself. The rice is important because not all types of rice can create a creamy texture without being mushy. A good rice creates a delightful creamy texture with definition. There are many options and many more opinions on which rice to use.

This now-classic recipe is from Marcella Hazan's cookbook, "Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking," which brings two of her classic cookbooks into one. If you only have one Italian cookbook, this is the one to have.

This amazing rice arrived! We order in this size for our chefs. We received more than expected in our shipment. A special price was shared with us and we are passing it on to you!

One of the key benefits of Acquerello rice is its exceptional texture and cooking performance. Thanks to the aging process, Acquerello rice maintains a firm, non-sticky texture when cooked, which makes it ideal for risotto.

Unlike other rice varieties, which may break down during cooking, Acquerello holds its shape and has a consistent, beautiful texture. The rice's ability to absorb liquids is another standout feature, as it soaks up the stock or broth used in the preparation, resulting in a creamy and flavorful dish.

Each grain cooks evenly and remains distinct, making Acquerello rice perfect for creating the perfect risotto.

Acquerello rice is also prized for its delicate, nutty flavor. It's chosen by chefs who specialize in risotto due to its exceptional performance and resulting excellence.

This classic recipe is simple, fast and easy. Capers and tuna are often added, as well.

Equipment: A frying pan large enough to hold the pasta and a pot to boil the pasta in.

The reason anchovies are so glutamate-rich is fascinating, and it comes down to biology, behavior, and how they're processed.

Why are Anchovies So High in Glutamate?

There are a few overlapping reasons:

1. Their Diet
Anchovies are filter feeders that consume a bunch of phytoplankton, zooplankton, and little crustaceans. These organisms are naturally high in glutamate and nucleotides, which accumulate in the anchovy's tissues over its life.

2. Their Muscle Biochemistry
Small schooling fish like anchovies are highly active swimmers that almost never rest. Their muscles are dense with mitochondria and metabolic enzymes, many of which are glutamate-dependent. This means their muscle tissue naturally contains high concentrations of glutamate.

3. The Curing and Fermentation Process
This is the big one. When anchovies are salt-cured (typically 12-24 months), autolysis occurs - the fish's own enzymes break down its proteins into free amino acids, including massive amounts of free glutamate. This is almost identical to what happens in aged Parmigiano-Reggiano. The salt preserves the fish while allowing enzymatic breakdown to proceed slowly.

Fresh anchovies when cured creates the glutamate bomb that they become!

Other Small Fish—Do they have the good stuff, too?

Yes, many small fish are naturally glutamate-rich. Sardines have similar biology to anchovies and canned sardines have significant free glutamate, just less than cured anchovies. Herring, Sprats, and Mackerel are also high in glutamate, especially when pickled or fermented.

And fermented Fish Sauces are where small fish really shine. Fish sauce, Garum (ancient Roman fish sauce) and Colatura di alici (Italian anchovy drippings) are essentially liquid glutamate concentrates, sometimes reaching 1,000+ mg of free glutamate per 100g. The fermentation process is the same autolysis mechanism taken to its extreme.

What about the Big Fish like Tuna--What's up with them?

Tuna has a different glutamate profile than small fish, for several reasons.

Fresh raw tuna actually contains meaningful free glutamate (around 140 mg/100g) which is why good sashimi-grade tuna has a natural umami quality. It's less than anchovies but still significant.

Why does tuna not have it like anchovies?

Because tuna are apex predators with very different muscle biochemistry. Their muscles contain more slow-twitch endurance fibers vs. the fast-twitch fibers of anchovies. Thus they don't accumulate glutamate the same way in their tissues.

But, Katsuobushi, when dried, fermented, smoked skipjack tuna is one of the most glutamate-rich foods in the world! And the cornerstone of Japanese dashi broth!

And Italian Bottarga (cured tuna or mullet roe) is another example of curing and releasing the enormous umami of the fishy.

It's all about the Enzymatic protein breakdown achieved via fermentation, curing, drying, or cooking to release the hiding umami. It is all about freeing the free glutamate from bound proteins.

What's Happening in the Store

Did you know the store often has more stuff?

Come, taste and check it out! Pick your favorite and meet friends new and old who all love food. We love it when you hang out!

March 2026
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ChefShop Retail Shop, 1425 Elliott Ave West, Seattle

Toffee is so easy to make. Sugar, butter, water and toppings.

And even though it so easy to make, I never want to. Toffee is such a super treat to eat, I love it when someone else makes it!

It's a gift of simplicity rewarded with a crunch, bite, and flavor!

And this toffee? It is not too sweet, it is a great refreshing treat, and it is not thick, like some. Instead it is thin and svelte. The break is the toffee and not your teeth!

In the package the view is shards of toffee. Each piece is different in shape and size. One side is flat chocolate, the flip side is topped with small white sesame seeds against the contrasting dark chocolate. And when you look closely you can see the black sesame seeds commingling with the chocolate and the other sesame seeds.

The first bite is joyous, with an easy crunch, an explosion of subtle flavor of chocolate, with the toasted sesame tingling the edges of the tongue. And there is a lot more sesame flavor than just what is on top (look closely at the edge and you will see the black sesame is in the toffee, too)!

Some of the pieces are bigger than a mouthful and need to be snapped into smaller, enjoyable bite-sized pieces. Don't be afraid though, the dark chocolate won't melt (unless you have hot hands) when you lightly hold it to make the break. It snaps so easily (and is strangely rewarding) that you start breaking with abandon!

The enjoyment factor with a small piece is so much better because a large piece gives you a mouthful which you consume because you are forced to chew and swallow. With a small, thumb-sized piece you can taste the chocolate, enjoy the crunch of the sugar which blends with the dark chocolate and get the sesame on the edge of your tongue.

You finish with clean molars, and a lovely dark chocolate flavor that makes you want to suck in your cheeks and the sesame.

When you are done with a piece or more, the joy of the bite is still with you to enjoy for quite some time. How good is that! Leaving a good taste in your mouth (instead of a bad one like the news does) is a wonderful thing!

Tomatoes are fascinating because they synthesize glutamate entirely through plant biology with no fermentation or curing needed. Turns out plants actively manufacture free glutamate as a core part of their daily biochemistry.

The carbon skeletons that form glutamate come directly from photosynthesis. Sunlight --> sugar --> citric acid cycle --> alpha-ketoglutarate --> glutamate. The tomato is literally converting sunlight and soil nitrogen into the umami flavor we crave.

Tomatoes are especially rich because they accumulate unusually high levels of free glutamate compared to most fruits, thanks to very active nitrogen metabolism and high metabolic activity during ripening. This actually peaks at perfect ripeness. A fully ripe tomato has more free glutamate than an underripe or overripe one. Worth knowing before you cook.

All this science stuff explains the synergistic umami effect that multiplies the perceived intensity dramatically.

To release all that potential it takes heat to make it happen. But it is complicated. Too much heat is not good, but high heat above ~140° degrees C / 285 degrees F gets you to the Maillard reaction. This kicks in a chemical reaction between amino acids (including glutamate) and reducing sugars, but only under dry surface conditions, which is why roasting works and boiling never will, no matter how hot.

This doesn't just release existing glutamate; it creates entirely new flavor molecules (hundreds of them) that add roasted, caramelized, complex savory notes on top of the base umami. Sustained high heat destroys those compounds though, so the goal is developing Maillard complexity without burning.

Roasted tomatoes taste dramatically different from simmered ones. Roasting adds a whole additional flavor dimension that simmering alone cannot produce.

The natural sugars in tomatoes caramelize at high heat, producing complex sweet-bitter-savory compounds that interplay with glutamate to create a more rounded, deeper flavor. This is why a long-roasted tomato has that almost jammy, complex sweetness alongside its savory intensity.

And then at moderate temperatures around 60-65 degrees C / 140-150 degrees F, heat breaks down the pectin and ruptures cell walls, releasing the contents of those vacuoles into the general mixture. This is also why a cooked tomato sauce has a completely different texture from a raw one as the cellular architecture has collapsed entirely. Time is way, way better for the perfect tomato sauce!

For perfection roast the tomatoes above ~140 degrees C / 285 degrees F to achieve the Maillard reaction, then slow simmer for extended protein breakdown and to collapse the cell walls, then reduce the sauce to concentrate, add a Parmigiano-Reggiano rind, an anchovy or a splash of soy sauce and explode the flavors!

This is a family recipe that we have made over and over. It's meant to be fun and easy to make.

Time and practice has allowed the formula to evolve into a not so classic Italian tomato-based sauce.

Anyone can make this homemade tomato pasta sauce with great success. Be sure to make enough and plan on at least 3 hours of simmering. Even better all day or 2 days to be just right to meld and thicken the flavors.

This is a "sharing" recipe, meaning great to make enough to share with everyone. Or eat all week with different shapes of pasta, over rice (jasmine or brown rice), or just plain like a thick soup or stew topped with Parmigiano-Reggiano.

And remember to modify this recipe as you want, don't like mushrooms, cut them down or don't include them! Add more or less, it all works out and makes it "yours".

This simple pasta sauce recipe is really good.

The short answer: yes. Marinated sun-dried tomatoes have significantly more umami than either fresh tomatoes or plain dried ones. They're one of the most glutamate-dense ingredients you can add to a dish and right up there with Parmigiano-Reggiano, anchovies, and miso. A few of them chopped into a sauce, a salad, or a braise will quietly transform everything around them.

Sun-drying alone is already extraordinary. The dehydration process removes up to 90% of the tomato's water, which means every umami compound, especially free glutamate, is concentrated into a tiny, dense package. One sun-dried tomato can deliver more umami punch than several fresh ones.

The key to this recipe is to use chicken thighs vs. chicken breasts. The skin adds a lot of flavor. The other key is the anchovies. Be sure not to over-salt the chicken, as both the anchovy filets and the salted capers will add a fair amount of salt. You can always add salt at the end if desired.

Ve Wong (King of Flavor) is a Taiwanese company with a genuinely fascinating origin story.

Founded in April 1959 as China Fermentation Industrial Co., Ltd., they started with the production of MSG and entered into technical cooperation with a Japanese company, adopting the fermentation technology from the very start.

Ve Wong was there from the very beginning of the fermentation era, just as the industry was shifting from chemical hydrolysis of proteins to bacterial fermentation of sugarcane and similar crops—a process much like the way cheese, yogurt, and wine are produced.

Today Ve Wong operates MSG production facilities in Taiwan with the smaller pack sizes sold internationally which are produced in a Ve Wong-owned factory in Thailand.

Ve Wong's MSG is made by fermenting cane molasses and tapioca starch, both abundant in Thailand, using Corynebacterium bacteria that consume those sugars and excrete glutamic acid as a byproduct.

After 30-40 hours of fermentation, the glutamic acid concentration in the broth reaches 100-150g/L. The liquid is then heated to denature the bacterial cells, centrifuged to remove residues, acidified to crystallize the glutamate out of solution, neutralized with sodium to produce monosodium glutamate, and dried into the familiar white crystals.

The process is essentially identical to making vinegar or yogurt. Which is exactly why the FDA places MSG in the same 'Generally Recognized As Safe' (GRAS) category as salt, pepper, vinegar, and baking powder. Not a drug. Not a chemical additive requiring special review. A common pantry ingredient, by official regulatory definition.

The end result is indistinguishable, chemically and biologically, from the glutamate in your Parmigiano-Reggiano or your tomatoes.

Ve Wong figured out how to get bacteria to do in 40 hours what a tomato plant does all summer.

You can use it like a BBQ sauce and you can also use it as a sweet condiment for rice and non-grilled meats.

Thick, like dark amber, late harvest grade B or C maple syrup, this is very dark in color.

To the nose, it smells like soy sauce, less bitter, and though you can smell sweet, it doesn't smell sweet. Perhaps it does not smell refreshing or appealing. Quite frankly, it smells nothing like the taste.

To the mouth, you can take a spoonful without the fear of a salty bomb that soy sauce might instill upon you.

There is no pucker-producing bite to this quite delicious treat. This is the best secret ingredient when making a marinade for a flank steak. Drizzle it into fresh carrot soup. On its own, it leans sweet, with the salty undertones enhancing the flavor and less adding a pronounced salt.

Pairing it along with soy sauce, fish sauce, and/or sesame oil is my favorite way. A recent use has been to lightly fry tofu in ghee, and then finish with Ketjap Medja, Shoyu, and a touch of Black Garlic Molasses, along with a healthy sprinkle of sesame seeds on top of rice.

This dark sweet soy sauce is one of the few essential pantry items I do not like to be without!

This Deep Dark Dutch-processed dark unsweetened cocoa powder is in a class unto itself. We have removed less fat from our cocoa (22-24% fat content), which results in a more intense and immediate chocolate flavor.

This "service pack" of ChefShop cocoa powder is designed for commercial users like baristas, bakers, and gelato makers. It is sealed in a thick zip-lock style bag for production baking with a Plain Jane label.

Price relative to quantity is also a crucial part of the commercial kitchen — quality and consistency relative to cost. The resealable bag keeps the cocoa powder fresh for a good long time.

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