Capers vs. Caperberries: What Is a Caper, Anyway?

By Eliza Ward

Capers may be the most misunderstood Mediterranean ingredient—after anchovies, that is.

Even people who know and love capers are often stumped when asked to explain exactly what a caper is. Is it a seed? A berry? A very small olive?

We thought we’d give it a shot.

A caper is the unopened flower bud of the caper bush, most commonly identified as Capparis spinosa. The hardy, sprawling shrub thrives in hot, dry climates and can be found growing across much of the Mediterranean, often emerging from rocky ground, stone walls and other places where more delicate plants might struggle.

The little green capers we cook with are picked before those buds open into the caper plant’s rather spectacular white or pale pink flowers.

A caperberry, on the other hand, is the fruit that develops after a flower has bloomed and been pollinated.

Capers vs. Caperberries: What’s the Difference?

Although they come from the same plant, capers and caperberries are different parts of its life cycle.

• Capers are unopened flower buds. They are generally small, intensely flavored and used as a seasoning in sauces, pasta, salads, vegetables, fish, and meat dishes.
• Caperberries are the plant’s fruit. They are much larger—often about the size and shape of a small green olive—and are usually sold with their stems still attached.

Caperberries tend to be milder and less concentrated in flavor than capers, with a meatier texture and small seeds inside. They are often eaten whole on antipasti plates, served with cocktails, or used anywhere you might otherwise reach for a green olive.

Or, if you’re really lucky, floating in a trendy Manhattan.

ChefShop’s Caperberries in Prosecco are particularly well suited to cocktails, cheese boards, and eating directly from the jar.

Where Do Capers Grow?

Caper bushes grow throughout the Mediterranean region, from Spain and North Africa to Italy, Greece and beyond. They’re remarkably well adapted to heat, wind, drought, and rocky soil.

You’ll often find caper bushes growing near olive trees, which may help explain why capers, olives, and olive oil seem so naturally connected in Mediterranean cooking. They belong in the same landscape—and happily, on the same plate.

There is one place in particular with an extraordinary reputation for capers: Pantelleria.

Pantelleria is a small Italian island in the Strait of Sicily, between Sicily and Tunisia. The volcanic island has mineral-rich soil, intense sunlight, strong winds and very little rainfall. These difficult growing conditions encourage caper plants to develop concentrated, highly aromatic flower buds.

What Are Pantelleria Capers?

The capers of Pantelleria are so closely associated with the island that the name Cappero di Pantelleria has Protected Geographical Indication status in the European Union.

You may see this written as PGI in English or IGP in Italian. The designation protects the name and connects the capers to their place of production and established local methods.

Not every caper grown on Pantelleria necessarily carries the official PGI seal, so the designation should be viewed as a specific certification rather than a general synonym for every Pantescan caper. But the island itself remains one of the world’s most celebrated caper-growing regions.

The flavor of a caper can change depending on where it is grown, the conditions of the season, when the bud is picked, and how it is cured. Pantelleria’s volcanic soil and demanding climate are believed to contribute to capers with an especially fragrant, concentrated character.

One Caper…Two Caper…

Capers are traditionally graded by size. You may encounter the following names:

• Nonpareil: up to 7 millimeters
• Surfines: 7 to 8 millimeters
• Capucines: 8 to 9 millimeters
• Capotes: 9 to 11 millimeters
• Fines: 11 to 13 millimeters
• Grusas: 14 millimeters and larger

The smallest capers on the market are called nonpareils, a French word meaning “without equal.” They’ve traditionally been the most highly prized because they must be picked very early, when the buds are still tiny and firm.

Harvesting capers is labor-intensive. The buds don’t all develop at once, so plants must be visited repeatedly throughout the season. The smallest buds are gathered by hand before they have time to grow larger or open in the Mediterranean sun.

Small capers tend to have a firm texture and a concentrated, aromatic flavor. They’re excellent when you want the capers to remain whole and distinct in a sauce, vinaigrette, or garnish.

But small doesn’t automatically mean better for every purpose.

Larger capers are still unopened flower buds—not flowers that have somehow gone halfway wrong. They’ve simply been allowed to develop longer before being picked. Their larger size can provide a softer, more substantial bite, and many cooks prefer them when capers are meant to be visible and tasted as an ingredient rather than scattered discreetly through a dish.

Large capers can be wonderful in rustic pasta dishes, alongside roasted fish or vegetables, or fried until crisp. Smaller capers work especially well in delicate sauces, dressings, and dishes where their compact texture is an advantage.

Ultimately, the best size depends on what you’re making—and how much caper you want in each bite.

Salt-Packed vs. Brined Capers

Size is only one factor to consider when choosing capers. The other major difference is how they are cured.

Fresh caper buds are quite bitter and aren’t generally eaten directly from the plant. They must first be cured, both to make them palatable and to develop the pungent, mustardy, floral flavor we recognize as caper.

The two most common preservation methods are salt-curing and brining.

Salt-Packed Capers

Salt-packed capers are layered with dry salt, which pulls moisture from the buds as they cure.

These are my personal favorite.

Without vinegar dominating the jar, salt-packed capers can retain more of their floral, herbal, and distinctly caper-like character. They also tend to have a firm texture that works particularly well in sauces and fried preparations.

Salt-packed capers must be rinsed before using. For a dish in which saltiness needs to be carefully controlled, you can also soak them in cool water for 10 to 20 minutes, changing the water once or twice. Taste one after rinsing; that’s the best way to know whether it needs more soaking.

Brined Capers

Brined capers are preserved in a liquid that commonly contains vinegar, water, and salt.

They’re widely available, easy to use and bring a bright, acidic flavor to a dish. Depending on the brine, however, the vinegar may be more noticeable than the caper’s subtler floral notes.

Brined capers may also have a slightly softer texture than salt-packed ones. That isn’t necessarily a drawback. Their acidity can be exactly what a rich sauce, creamy dressing, or buttery piece of fish needs.

Drain and taste brined capers before adding them. Rinse them when the brine tastes too sharp, salty, or vinegary for the dish you’re making.

Dried Capers

Dried or dehydrated capers are less common. They’re typically made from capers that have already been cured and are then dried until crisp.

They can be used almost like a crunchy seasoning, adding small bursts of salt and caper flavor to salads, vegetables, fish, and other finished dishes.

Do You Need to Rinse Capers?

Usually, yes—but exactly how much depends on the caper and the recipe.

Salt-packed capers should always be rinsed to remove the visible curing salt. They may also need to be soaked if they’re particularly salty.

Brined capers can often simply be drained, especially when the recipe benefits from their acidity. Rinse them when you want a cleaner caper flavor or when the brine would make the finished dish too salty or vinegary.

The important thing is to taste before and after rinsing. Capers aren’t identical from one producer—or one jar—to the next.

The Versatile Caper

Capers can be used in hundreds of ways. Their salty, tangy, mustardy flavor provides contrast, helping to wake up foods that might otherwise taste too rich, too mild or simply unfinished.

Personally, I love capers in a spaghetti sauce with tomatoes or sautéed in butter and poured over tortellini. They’re a natural addition to salad dressings, tartar sauce, salsa verde, tapenade, and pasta puttanesca.

They also play very well with tuna, anchovies, eggs, lemon, tomatoes, potatoes, roasted vegetables, chicken, and just about any kind of fish.

Try them in ChefShop’s Famous Tuna Butter Dip, where they add both salt and their distinctive, lively flavor. Or put them to work in a classic Chicken Piccata with Capers, where the combination of lemon, butter, and capers is popular for a very good reason.

How to Make Crispy Fried Capers

If you’re a fan of Crispy Fried Capers—a GREAT addition to a salad, roasted vegetables, or grilled salmon—I recommend using salt-packed capers.

Rinse them thoroughly, then dry them extremely well before frying. Any water left clinging to the capers will cause the oil to splatter.

As they fry, the buds open slightly and become crisp and delicate. The result is something between a caper, a tiny flower, and the world’s most interesting salty crouton.

Both small and large capers can be fried. Small capers produce little concentrated pops of crunch, while larger capers open more dramatically and create a more substantial garnish.

Frequently Asked Questions About Capers

Are capers a vegetable?

Culinarily, capers are usually treated as a condiment or seasoning. Botanically, however, they are unopened flower buds.

Are capers and caperberries the same thing?

No. They come from the same plant, but a caper is an unopened flower bud and a caperberry is the fruit that develops after a flower blooms.

Do capers taste like olives?

They share some salty, briny qualities, but capers are usually more pungent and mustardy. Caperberries are closer to olives in size, texture, and the way they’re served.

Which are better: salt-packed or brined capers?

Salt-packed capers tend to offer a more concentrated caper flavor, while brined capers bring more noticeable acidity. Neither is universally better. The right choice depends on the flavor and texture you want.

Are smaller capers better?

Small nonpareil capers are traditionally the most prized and are particularly firm and concentrated. Larger capers can be equally delicious and may be preferable when you want a more substantial texture or a caper that remains visibly present in the dish.

Can you eat caperberries whole?

Yes. Caperberries are typically served whole with the stem attached, although the stem itself may be too tough to eat. They’re excellent on antipasti boards, in salads and cocktails, or anywhere you might serve a pickled olive.

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